{"id":7588,"date":"2013-09-10T22:07:30","date_gmt":"2013-09-10T22:07:30","guid":{"rendered":""},"modified":"2019-04-16T12:37:24","modified_gmt":"2019-04-16T12:37:24","slug":"mandalay-ancient-cities-the-scariest-train-myanmar-burma-html-d1","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/laughfrodisiac.com\/2013\/09\/10\/mandalay-ancient-cities-the-scariest-train-myanmar-burma-html-d1\/","title":{"rendered":"Mandalay, Ancient Cities, & the Scariest Train, Myanmar (Burma)"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Leaving Bagan like the horsey<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n
    When our time in Bagan ended, it was pretty hard to leave the natural wonder of the region. However, Mandalay and the ancient cities in the Mandalay region were up next with their own wonders and amazing sights. I was also secretly most excited about Mandalay because Rudyard Kipling’s poem about it has the most perfect rhythm ever: <\/div>\n

By the old Moulmein Pagoda, lookin’ lazy at the sea,
There’s a Burma girl a-settin’, and I know she thinks o’ me;
For the wind is in the palm-trees, and the temple-bells they say:
“Come you back, you British soldier; come you back to Mandalay!”
Come you back to Mandalay,
Where the old Flotilla lay:
Can’t you ‘ear their paddles chunkin’ from Rangoon to Mandalay?
On the road to Mandalay,
Where the flyin’-fishes play,
An’ the dawn comes up like thunder outer China ‘crost the Bay!<\/strong><\/font><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

<\/span>\"Picture\"<\/a>U Bein Bridge<\/span><\/span> <\/p>\n

     Upon landing in Mandalay (after, if I remember correctly, the scariest flight yet), we drove to our first destination, Amarapura. Once (actually, twice) the capital of Burma, Amarapura is most known for U Bein Bridge, the longest teak bridge in the world. Walking along U Bein Bridge is the thing to do. It’s a nice stroll, guaranteed warm and sunny, and buggy – make sure to use extra mosquito repellent. <\/div>\n
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A few boaters off of U Bein Bridge<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

<\/span>\"Picture\"<\/a>The line for lunch at Mahagandayon Monastery<\/span><\/span> <\/p>\n

Amarapura, besides being the most fun name to say, is also home to a pretty happening monastery, Mahagandayon. Actually, I’m pretty sure all the monasteries in Burma can be called happening; it’s pretty common for young sons to be sent away to study, and they all seemed pretty crowded. <\/div>\n
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<\/span>\"Picture\"<\/a>I’m (almost) on a boat<\/span><\/span> <\/p>\n

   Next, we took a boat across the river to visit the ancient imperial capital of Inwa (or Ava). Inwa is a very lush, unkempt place, very much for travelers to visit and not so much for living. A few monasteries, pagodas, and other sights await.
    WARNING: Due to the whole ‘for visiting\/not for living’ setup and the whole rural, unkempt land thing, Inwa has no roads, no cars, and isn’t very walkable. The only way people get around is by horse cart. Upon landing on the Inwa riverbank and seeing what our guide was leading us to, I was vehement about absolutely not forcing a horse to cart me around. I tried to find a bike or something, anything else to use to get around. But after some effort, we learned that the choice was either to use the horses or to skip the visit. So, we went. Hard decisions regarding cultural clashes with veganism always come up when traveling, and I guess I was lucky that this was the worst one I faced in Burma. I still feel badly about it, but I’m not sure skipping Inwa would have been the right decision.
    The guide didn’t speak English and didn’t understand what my problem was, so she thought I was scared of horses, and throughout the day kept holding my hand and stuff. It was weird.<\/div>\n
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Inwa’s rice paddies and pagodas<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

<\/span>\"Picture\"<\/a>Maha Aung Mye Bon Zan Monastery. Much bigger in real life<\/span><\/span> <\/p>\n

Inwa was home to one of my absolute favorite buildings in Myanmar, the Maha Aung Mye Bon Zan Monastery, or Me Nu’s Brick Monastery. Huge and colored with age, the imposing building was really beautiful. And, you get to walk around and explore all the tiers (barefoot, of course. Everything is barefoot).
    The last great sight in Inwa was the Bagaya Kyaung Teak Monastery, another teak wood wonder. <\/div>\n
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Mingun’s Unfinished Pagoda<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n
   No, Mingun’s sights really are astounding and almost as great as a perfect custard apple. The Mingun Pahtodawgyi, the unfinished pagoda, is freaking massive. It would have been the largest stupa in the world, but astrologers predicted that the king would die upon its finishing, so the work stopped. Astrology causes so many problems. <\/div>\n

<\/span>\"Picture\"<\/a>Hsinphyumae Pagoda<\/span><\/span> <\/p>\n

  Near the enormous unfinished stupa is Hsinphyumae Pagoda. I love the facade of this one because it looks like waves in the ocean. It’s named after a princess who died in childbirth. <\/p>\n

    Mingun also has the world’s largest uncracked bell, a distinction I appreciated as a Philadelphian. Visitors can ring the Mingun bell by smacking it with a big piece of wood. It’s harder than it sounds, and when you do it you look ridiculous, hence no pictures.
    Besides perfect custard apples, Mingun’s other culinary claim to fame is its spirulina beer on tap. As a vegan, I’m pretty hip to the spirulina, so I had to try this even though I despise beer. You know what? It tasted like kombucha!<\/div>\n

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The only time you’ll catch me drinking beer<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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Sagaing Hill from across the Ayerwaddy<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

<\/span>\"Picture\"<\/a>One of these is not like the others<\/span><\/span> <\/p>\n

    My favorite pagoda up on Sagaing Hill was the U Min Thonze Temple. It’s known as the Thirty Caves Pagoda because it has 30 Buddha statues with a little cave-like entrance in front of each Buddha. <\/div>\n
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<\/span>\"Picture\"<\/a>This was not our boat, but ours was pretty similar<\/span><\/span> <\/p>\n

     After seeing all of these wonderful ancient cities, we crossed the Ayerwaddy River to finally see Mandalay. I loved taking all these boats; it’s cooler on the water.<\/div>\n
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Women washing in the Ayerwaddy<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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Center of Mandalay<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

<\/span>\"Picture\"<\/a>Welcoming sign<\/span><\/span> <\/p>\n

   You might recall from the first post about Myanmar<\/a> when I said something about the Tatmadaw crushing all who oppose the military government. It’s because of this frightening, enormous sign warning all to obey the Tatmadaw or, well, be crushed. 
Thankfully, the rest of Mandalay was pretty welcoming, although not very comfortable. It’s a very dilapidated city, with makeshift sidewalks built by laying stone planks down over holes in the ground. I near sprained my ankles multiple times. So, in summary, tread carefully around Mandalay! 
    You’ll likely visit the Mandalay Palace, the royal residence of the last two kings of Burma. Most of the grounds were destroyed during World War II, so this is a replica. <\/div>\n
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Mandalay Palace<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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     My favorite pagoda in Mandalay was Kuthodaw Pagoda, better known as The World’s Biggest Book. Separate little huts house single (huge, stone) pages of the book, and with more than 1000 pages, you probably won’t get to see all  of it. Biggest book indeed! This is such a cool sight.<\/div>\n
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One page of the book <\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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   Mandalay had great food. We found this insanely delicious Nepalese place called NVC, that had unlimited thali<\/em> for about a dollar or something insane. (It’s probably what eventually made us sick.) Also, Mandalay had a truly vegetarian restaurant! The food at Marie Min restaurant was delicious, and more importantly in this country, the produce was washed with boiled water! I could have salads! We had a variety of curries and vegetable spread, and of course whatever raw produce we could get. If you go, order the eggplant dip. So good. I loved this place, especially the sign that hangs out front: <\/div>\n
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How amazing is this!<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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   A very famous pagoda in Mandalay is the Mahamuni Buddha Temple, home to a very important Buddha that pilgrims can touch and coat with pieces of gold leaf. NB: pilgrims are only men, obvs. <\/div>\n
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\"Picture\" <\/a> <\/p>\n
Mahamuni Buddha<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

<\/span>\"Picture\"<\/a><\/span><\/span> <\/p>\n

After a few days in Mandalay, we embarked upon one of the scariest adventures of my life. My boyfriend loves epic train rides, so when he learned there was one in Burma, we had to go on it, no matter how insane the idea. This ride was famous because it crossed the Goke Hteit Viaduct, a treacherous pass. <\/div>\n
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That skinny little track across the cliffs of insanity is the pass we just had to cross! So scary, isn’t it? Here we go…<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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I KNOW!!!!!!!!!!!!<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n
    How petrifying is that view! Oh my goodness! You can bet that I had my seasick bands around my wrists and I was gorging on ginger chews during this! Obviously, we made it across, but man alive was it scary! And pretty cool. It was built in 1902 by the Pennsylvania and Maryland Steel Co., so that’s pretty neat! We met really nice Burmese people in our train carriage (which rivaled the Bosnian trains<\/a>) who helped make the ride more pleasant despite the language barrier. That’s always the best part of traveling, meeting great locals. (And getting to the other side of this viaduct.)<\/div>\n

<\/span>\"Picture\"<\/a>The takin<\/span><\/span> <\/p>\n

     The last place we visited in the Mandalay region, before flying to Inle Lake, was Pyin Oo Lwin, which used to be called Maymyo when it was a British hill station. Pyin Oo Lwin’s biggest draw is this huge fancy nature park, the Kandawgyi Botanical Gardens. We saw so many incredible plants and animals, including my first black swan, and this guy, the takin. I’m not really sure what kind of animal he is, but he’s cute! They kind of just roam around in the forests and we probably shouldn’t have been so close. 
    We also saw this peacock! How gorgeous is that! I had never before seen a peacock do its dance before. Love it! 
   Stay tuned for the last leg of my travels through Myanmar, to come next week.<\/div>\n
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Last sunset over Mandalay<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Leaving Bagan like the horsey     When our time in Bagan ended, it was pretty hard to leave the natural wonder of the region. 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