{"id":10970,"date":"2019-10-15T16:14:24","date_gmt":"2019-10-15T16:14:24","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/laughfrodisiac.com\/?p=10970"},"modified":"2020-01-15T16:21:31","modified_gmt":"2020-01-15T16:21:31","slug":"traveling-while-vegan-in-mexico-city-part-1-hipodromo-la-condesa-roma","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/laughfrodisiac.com\/2019\/10\/15\/traveling-while-vegan-in-mexico-city-part-1-hipodromo-la-condesa-roma\/","title":{"rendered":"Traveling While Vegan in: Mexico City (Part 1: Hipodromo, La Condesa, Roma)"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

“Hey, do you guys know a good place where I can get Mexican food?…Oh, Mexico, duhh!” Just like Judge Gen on The Good Place<\/em>, my love of Mexican food runs hella deep (although I do not have the ability to add essence of time to my burritos). We finally made it to Mexico City, what the cool kids call CDMX (for Ciudad de Mexico), and we forking LOVED it. All of it too, not just the (amazing) (omg so good) (and so vegan-friendly) food, which is a huge deal for something who tends not to breathe in heavily polluted cities. Okay I’m not saying we loved the pollution (hates it!) or the traffic but the rest of it, you bet your bottom dollar we loved.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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come with meeee and you’ll seeeee<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

After our incredible time in the Yucatan<\/strong> <\/span><\/em><\/a>(that link will show all the Yucatan posts at the beginning!), we flew from Merida to Mexicity funtimes. PS, the Merida airport doesn’t have vegan food but it DOES have giant waters after security, which is the most important thing. (The airport was also playing my absolute favorite song from the band Jesse & Joy, a Mexican duo that I hadn’t thought about in years so I was like almost crying, it was so amazing. (They are amazing truly check them out.)) Okay food is important too, so that was bad planning on my part. The flight was 10:50am, landing (bumpily) in CDMX at 12:50pm. By the time we got through customs and got our bags, it was like hella late! 2pm! Where’s our first day! I guess it was not a good day to not plan for lunch, I’ll tell you that. The airport has mmmnothing. So don’t be like me! Be smart! <\/p>\n\n\n

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UM SO after we heard Jesse & Joy (it’s Jesse ‘e’ Joy obvs!) in the airport, we drove by this billboard announcing that they were in CONCERT…in MERIDA, the day after we left Merida ohhh my goodness can you even believe?
It’s okay I just love them so much! <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

We took an Uber to our hotel because the metro wouldn’t have helped much timewise (and we were crankypants), but MAN ALIVE, the drive into the city from the airport was hell. Sitting in traffic was definitely the worst part of the whole experience (and I had to go to the hospital another day! we will get there), just sitting on crammed highways and smelling\/seeing the pollution. We walked everywhere and used public transit from that point on.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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TWO GOOD BOYS AND A BALL IN FRONT OF OUR HOTEL YAYYY<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Luckily, everything picked up from there! We got to the Hipodromo section of the La Condesa neighborhood to our hotel, Casa Mali. Guys, I don’t think i can do justice to how BEST EVER this hotel was. First of all, the room was not a room but more like a surprise serviced apartment: a little kitchen with a full-size fridge (and a blender!), a dining area, a gorgeous bedroom, a sun-lit bathroom. We were on the top floor (yes it was called a penthouse but it was like 4th floor, it’s a small boutique place and it’s perfect) so not sure if this was an upgrade sitch but I wasn’t going to ask questions. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The nice lobby we waited it for the short time before our room was ready (check in was at 4pm). The staff was friendly and let me eat the apples on display.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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HI LITTLE KITCHEN AREA<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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HI BIG ASS FRIDGE WAY BIGGER THAN MINE IN MY HAUS AND LOVELY DINING AREA WITH SECOND TV I NEVER USED I’M SORRY TV I KNOW YOU WANTED TO BE USED BUT WE HAD THINGS TO DO<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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HI GORGEOUS BED I LOVE YOU BED
(not pictured: A+ wall unit the bed points to and another big tv, plus on the left side you can sort of see the beginning of an INCREDIBLY GIGANTIC CLOSET AREA)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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The skylight in the bathroom, letting in all this beautiful natural light, made showering in it really just the greatest thing ever. <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

But aside from a great shower, a huge fridge, a lovely bed, all these wonderful aspects of the room, what could there be that actually made me sob with happiness and disbelief at our good fortune? Guys what’s my favorite thing in the world??<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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I WUV YOU WOBOT<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

A WASHER AND A SEPARATE DRYER! AHHHHH! I screamed, I really did, and then I immediately told my mom and my best friend so they could scream (they know how much I love a good dryer). I know this is weird but they don’t do dryers right\/at all in England so this was huge for us. And those of you who followed along on our Central Asia trip a few years ago (check the DESTINATIONS <\/strong>tab at the top) know how much I love (\/how anxious I get about) doing laundry when I’m traveling. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Obviously I immediately washed all of our clothes and then did my second favorite thing to do when traveling: completely unpack.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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YEAH I KNOW I travel with too many shoes but hear me out: hiking shoes, workout sneakers, fashun sneakers, going-out flats if necessary, and flip flops! CAN’T CUT ANY.
(not pictured: water shoes lol)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

The hotel had a roof deck with a tiny hot tub and a “gym” – and by “gym” I mean a teeny lil room with an elliptical and a treadmill but no real room to get on them, lol. Our room was spacious enough that I worked out in there! (ABYB: always bring your bands!) <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Okay that’s enough about the room because you know what the best part of this hotel was? Well what do I love even more than a clothes dryer that actually works? The same thing I love more than life: <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Doggos.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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TWO GOOD BOYS! <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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FOUR? FIVE?! GOOD BOYS!<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

People. The hotel was located right on a park, which according to google maps is called simply Parque Mexico, which cannot be right. But not just any park: It was a dog park. It was packed full of good boys literally everywhere you turned, all day every day. I honestly would have been happy not seeing any of Mexico City and just walking around this dog park every day. I could NOT handle it! So cuteeee! In fact, one day, there was a doggo adoption fair going on in the park. Right outside our front door. Can you even? I could not even.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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this is me crying because I couldn’t adopt my new frens<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Mexico City is like, UNNERVINGLY large, so instead of breaking up the experience in the usual way (separate posts for activities, hotel + food, &c), we are going to talk about each neighborhood that we explored in separate posts. It’s so big that it’s no good to you if we talk about a restaurant near x activity in a post that isn’t about x activity! It’s like REALLY big so you have to plan ahead and know what you’re after. We’ll continue today with our BFF nabe, where we set up our base: Hipodromo in the La Condesa neighborhood, about the southwest corner of the very central section of the city. It’s right near the Roma neighborhood, and we excitedly took pictures outside the Roma<\/em> house even though the movie was like, just okay. <\/p>\n\n\n

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Read my thoughts on Roma and every other important movie of 2018 here<\/a><\/strong><\/span>!<\/em><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n

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The sign says ‘aqui se filmo Roma’
i was looking at a dog<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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The white house in the previous photo is where they filmed the movie, and on the same block is this pink one which I believe is the one Cuaron actually grew up in <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

I’m SO glad we had a friend recommend staying in La Condesa. CDMX is GIGANTIC (i’m going to say that a lot) and figuring out where to stay or even where to go is seriously stressful, so having an insider’s opinion on what neighborhood we’d like most was priceless. La Condesa is a really nice, chill, hipster, semi-quiet very-neighborhoody area with lots of good businesses, and full of green spaces. That last one really helps you feel comfortable in a city where not many people feel comfortable. In fact, most people I know who have been to CDMX in real life have hated it! I think your enjoyment hundo p depends on what sections of it you explore and where you stay. All the pollution and cars and HUBBUB that you’ll encounter throughout your day pretty much sucks, so having to stay in an area that is also super pollution + cars + HUBBUB would be terrible. La Condesa was so calm and green and cool, it was like a refuge we could return to after hubbubbing all day, a refuge that is still jam-packed with activity but in a cool neighborhoody way.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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I WUV YOU TACOS<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

I’m also super grateful to our expert-friend for recommending this neighborhood because he based it mostly on its proximity to Tacos Hola, also known as Tacos El Guero, also known from its sign as Tacos Hola El Guero but that’s not the name, it has to be one of the other variations. Anyway, this super unassuming lil almost-hole-in-the-wall joint was INCREDIBLE. There were big pots of all these different kinds of fillings and you just say which pots you want in a taco. There’s also a big picture-board of all the menu options which you know is the best forking thing in a foreign country.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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nothing better than a pictofoodboard in a foreign country <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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i want that that and that plz<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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I got chard with guacamole. To quote Glinda when she opens Act II with arguably my favorite song from Wicked<\/em>, “that’s whyyyyyyy I couldn’t be happierrrrrrrrrr”<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

It doesn’t look like much, but that’s because they are LEGIT, not worried about the gram but about the taste and the authenticity and the general amazeballsness. AMAZE. And the people were really nice and friendly despite my horrible attempts at communicating.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Alright, it’s time for some culture – we will get back to tacos later, as 90% of what we did was eat tacos. Our big To-Do list for Mexico City was literally to go to the Museo Nacional de Antropologia, or the National Anthropology Museum. Now, if ever a museum has attained A Reputation, it’s this one, famed for requiring not a whole afternoon, not even an entire day, but entire daysss, plural, to even scratch the surface. We tried, my lord how we tried, and we did not even finish the first floor. It is INTENSE, it is dense with information, and it is incredible. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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DAYS AND DAYS AND DAYS that’s what you need here<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

The MNDA, former name of MDMA, from here on in referred to as the Anthropology Museum because I’m realizing what a horrible acronym that makes, is the largest and most visited museum in Mexico. It’s in Chapultepec Park, a giant, lovely park to stroll around with lots of other important sites: the Castillo de Chapultepec (a castle on a hilltop with a history museum), a modern art museum, several fountains and monuments, a lake, a zoo (don’t go to zoos!), a Canadian Totem…? LOTS. We meandered through the park on the walk from our hotel so it took about an hour to get there. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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We also, obvs, were stopping to try every awesome bit of street food we saw.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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IIII WILLLLL FIND A TREE ALL COVERED WITH MANGO, JUICY MANGO FAT! and well fed…and then cover it all with chili!!!! the best!<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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I will also find all the cool root veg chips and cover all THAT biz in chili sauce ALSO! HOORAY FOR MEXICO!<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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this was a spicy meataball at the bottom!<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

The museum costs 75 pesos to enter (about $4), so one of the highest values in all of museuming considering the quality and quantity of what’s inside (“everyone wants to know what’s insiiiiide”). The only bad thing is they do not let you bring liquids – even water – in, and Mexico City isssss hot. Because “I promised” not to drink what was left (not that much!) from my giant bottle, the security guards let me in with it, and I drank when I was in between rooms and near bathrooms, but I didn’t have nearly enough. After a few hours of rationing when I really could not afford to be rationing, I ran to the cafe at the end of the first floor only to find they had CLOSED FOR THE DAY. I mean, WTF. Guess who else closed for the day? The fancy restaurant! I was like please please I need water I’m literally dying, and they said they could fill my bottle from the tap. Well. If you know anything about traveling to Mexico, not drinking tap water is like rule numero uno. I knew that, and my face conveyed that I knew it to the guy who offered, because he quickly added “the water is filtered from this tap.” And honestly, I didn’t know if filtered meant safe for my weak ass tumnus, but I was going to find out because I needed water. Luckily, I am happy to report I did not get sick. PROCEED WITH VISIT! <\/p>\n\n\n\n

So, a museum of anthropology is not full of cute dresses that are supes overpriced until they go on sale and you have to root through those overstuffed racks and honestly in the past few years it’s not even worth it anymore; whoever is doing their buying should be working at Free People because the aesthetic is off. ANYWAY, no, anthropology is the scientific study of humans, human behavior, and past and present societies. (The study of (near-) future societies is called Idiocracy by Mike Judge.) The museum is packed with archaeological and anthropological artifacts from Mexico’s pre-Columbian heritage, with lots of Aztec finds. Even if you don’t think you are interested in anthropology, you gotta see the big f-ing thing, okay?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Considering the extent of what we saw on our first day literally fills four years’ worth of college anthro courses (I took one and it was too cold in the hall so I did not learn SHITE), I’m going to just share my highlights from the museum instead of like, leading you through it. There are tons of good highlight guides online if you need guidance for when you are there. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Considering my line of work (you can ask if you want), I loved that my visit began with a sign calling humans chumps for trying to feel superior to chimps. I am so going to throw the phrase “nothing but an evidence of anthropocentric arrogance” at some bitches. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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“No Australopithecus was never fully erect!”
“well maybe he was nervous.”<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

The museum is laid out like a big rectangle, with each room opening to the inner courtyard on the inside and having outdoor exhibit extensions on the perimeter. I was grateful for these outdoor sections because no one can yell at you for drinking water outside! It rains! <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Below is the Aztec sun stone, maybe the most famous Aztec sculpture. Its complexity has attracted tons of interpretations from scholars but I bet none of them are right. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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literally every single bit of it is symbolically important <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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doesn’t he look like someone from The Emperor’s New Groove<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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this is the face I made when I learned this was YET ANOTHER structure for ritual sacrifice<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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this poor guy’s cold because NONE OF YOU CARVED HIM ANY CLOTHING<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Okay so when you see stairs leading from the main rooms down into the basement level, you need to follow them (I know it sounds like a trap) because there’s amazing light-sensitive stuff down there, like this mausoleum of the ruler K’inich Janaab’ Pakal (yes it’s a reproduction of the mausoleum — this museum wasn’t built around ROYAL BURIAL GROUNDS — but that’s still cray). This tomb was the subject of ancient astronaut hypotheses because of Erich Von Daniken’s 1968 book Chariots of the Gods? in which he was like ‘the pictures on the sarcophagus show rockets and aliens! the Maya were friends with aliens!” totes credible<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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this is Pakal’s mortuary mask, made of jade, obviously, as important people in any culture were always buried in jade to protect them…from…death…?<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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It me! This is the featured headress of Moctezuma II (not a typo although I think Moctezuma is the same as Montezuma??). This is also a replica but THIS one we can be mad about because the original is in Vienna, which is some real wypipo bullshit<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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this is…a giant head. HEEEEEED. MOOOOOOVE. NOWWWWW.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Thsi is the central courtyard of the museum, a huge totem fountain that was HEAVEN to stand under!! <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

So that was a quick and dirty tour through…the things I took pictures of, so if you are in CDMX, know that you must go and you must devote lots of time to a proper visit. (And let me know what’s on the second floor; we never made it!)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After all that learning, we all deserve a delicious reward:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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MOAR TACOS! We treated our time in CDMX as any wise person should: as a chance to do the taco cleanse and to do it right. La Pitahaya was on my list because it’s hundo p vegan and had great reviews on trusty old HappyCow. Also, it was a 20 minute walk from our hotel, which is pretty much as close as anything could be in this city.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We enjoyed delicious tamales, a special from Mama that day (I’m assuming), and AMAZ tacos. They have six or so taco kinds, so we thought it would be normal to have 3 each, but fork being normal – if you go just get one of each. WHY NOT. They also have INCREDIBLE sounding mains like enchiladas and enfrijoladas, and if we weren’t committed to our cleanse\/if we had more time, I would have been back for all of it. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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a very good tamale. Also, a ginger kombucha!<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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literally INCROYABLE tacos and they do PINK TORTILLASSSSS <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

We got a ‘carnitas michoacanas’ which is meaty mushrooms, with raw nopales; we got my FAVE the scrambled tofu with black salt and guacamole (I mean, a perfect food circle); and I think the masala curry potatoes? Just get them all. Man alive, these were great. I definitely recommend a visit. And the staff was SO super amazing and nice and I wanted to be friends and not only because they gave me tacos. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The last thing I’ll share from this neighborhood is our visit to a pulcheria, a thing we had to do because culture. Pulcherias sell pulque, a Mexican alcoholic drink made by fermenting sap from the maguey plant, which is a kind of large agave plant. Cool! I thought. It’s like an agave nectar drink! No, pulque is like the initial, unfiltered substance that can be distilled into mezcal (which can be tequila). I was told this was like kombucha, like a low-alcohol drink that I’d be fine with, which was FALSE. The kind we tried at L’Nuclear Pulcheria (about 20 minutes from our hotel) (I mean honestly the name should have given it away) was 20% alcohol! That’s like A LOT. It wasn’t an unpleasant drink though, which is a huge thing considering it’s famous for its OKRA-LIKE VISCOSITY. It really is…quite viscous. But if you can consume alcohol, it’s worth a try. I didn’t hate it but I will be sticking with kombucha. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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it’s like a gumbo but cold and for drinking <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

So that’s our first look into Mexico City! Next time – Coyoac\u00e1n! And more tacos of course. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

“Hey, do you guys know a good place where I can get Mexican food?…Oh, Mexico, duhh!” Just like Judge Gen on The Good Place, my love […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":10983,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[162],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-10970","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-travel-d1"],"yoast_head":"\nTraveling While Vegan in: Mexico City (Part 1: Hipodromo, La Condesa, Roma) - Laughfrodisiac<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/laughfrodisiac.com\/2019\/10\/15\/traveling-while-vegan-in-mexico-city-part-1-hipodromo-la-condesa-roma\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Traveling While Vegan in: Mexico City (Part 1: Hipodromo, La Condesa, Roma) - 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