<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\nWe were beyond excited for our first guacamole of the trip, and theirs did not disappoint. (I mean, I don’t think it’s possible to have less-than-stellar guacamole when in Mexico.) We were also delighted to find that Yerbabuena had the vegan-friendly Yucatan staple dip of sizil pak, a traditional Mayan pumpkin seed dip. SO GOOD!<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Even though they didn’t have the vegan lasagna (they don’t have it till 8pm and we arrived at 7pm because we are not cool enough to eat at normal times in any Spanish-speaking locale, apparently), I was after Mexican food anyway (it’s literally why we came here) and I was thrilled to have tamales! I love tamales! These were great! <\/p>\n\n\n\nI don’t think you can photograph tamales well so I kept them wrapped for you. Okay I don’t think *I* can photograph tamales well, okay<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nAs you can see, it came with a side salad. Mexico, as you know if you’ve heard any lazy jokes from the past 50 years, is famous for giving tourists some tumtum troubs, and we knew to stay away from raw veg and unwashed produce in general. However, I had a feeling that if any restaurant were safe to trust, it was Yerbabuena. I’m happy to report I did not get sick! And I got to have a salad! My happiest day. (I wrote in my notes from this dinner: “I am eating the side salad make sure to note on the blog if I get sick or not!” I did not!) I get the tumtums super easily so I am confident in reporting that the salad here is safe for all.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
We really pushed our luck on our first meal in Mexico, hilariously, because we also broke the other main rule about eating in this country: we had drinks with ice! They were amazing juices, one chaya (a spinach-like green we would have a lot this trip, loves it) with pineapple, and one tejate, a juice from the cocoa flower. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
thanks for not killing us<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\nWith its amazing food, including must-try traditional dishes like sizal pak and tamales and tejate and chaya and guacamole and really everything we had omg it was so delicious, plus safe-for-our-weak-stomachs salad AND ice, I wholeheartedly recommend dining at Yerbabuena when you visit Valladolid and the Yucatan. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
After our yucatangfastic (omg sorry) dinner, we strolled through the city center again and saw what we would learn is a staple of nights all across the Yucatan: enormous dance parties in the street. But the fun adorable kind, full of older Mexicans dancing and playing music and having a jolly time while the nearby sidewalks are packed to the gills with people watching. It was so sweet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
I put a video in my instagram stories, link at the top<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\nOn the way home, we also found incredible paletas, frozen fruit popsicles. I had my first and probably the best one ever. This was watermelon, and it was literally just perfect sweet frozen watermelon juice. Ugh so perfect, especially with the background of YA books in Spanish (I see you Bajo La Misma Estrella<\/span>, trying to make me cry!).<\/p>\n\n\n\nperf<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\nIt was a pretty great first night in the Yucatan, and our last relaxed segment of the entire trip. We had shit to do!! <\/p>\n\n\n\n
After a decent night’s sleep and a very nice plate of fruit for breakfast, the next day we enjoyed the busiest and best day. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
fruit<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n
EK BALAM<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\nEk Balam is one of my jams now<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nEk Balam is about a 30 minute drive from Valladolid. It often gets overlooked as tourists concentrate on the big kahuna, Chichen Itza, and the next biggest kahuna, Uxmal, but you must make room in your schedule for a visit to Ek Balam as well. It doesn’t require too much time – you could probably spend only an hour if you are pressed – but it is definitely a worthwhile starting point on your ruinous journey. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
I’m Indian Jones! I’m like already tired<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\nEk Balam was the seat of a Mayan kingdom dating back to 1000 BCE, now a Yucatec-Mayan archaeological site. King Ukit Tan Lek Tok, who ruled during the height of this city’s power in 770 to about 800 AD, is buried in the Acropolis. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
We got to Ek Balam early, and I suggest doing the same because you can climb all over (most of) the pyramids and structures here and you want to beat the heat and the crowds. It makes sense to see Ek Balam and Chichen Itza on the same day, so you may be thinking that it’s better to get to the big one early and have a better experience there. However, you can’t climb the structures at Chichen Itza anymore, so beating the heat for that reason is not applicable. Also, Chichen Itza is the biggest tourist attraction in this entire state – meaning, you will never beat the crowds. It’s always crowded. With Ek Balam, if you arrive early you might be one of only a handful there, so at least you will get one set of ruins almost to yourself! (Also, Chichen Itza is enormous in comparison, so the everpresent crowds, even in the afternoon, are never really a problem. You’ll see later!) <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Who knew when I looked through this hole to that enormous structure in the background that I would be climbing that enormous structure THREE TIMES in this heat man alive<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\nThere are 45 structures at Ek Balam, but a lot of them are smaller and\/or not permissible to climb so it seems smaller than it sounds, especially compared to the other sites. The big climbing challenge is the main structure, the Acropolis, and even if it wasn’t 100 degrees out it would be hard. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
(Oh, side note: Yes I am talking about temperatures in Fahrenheit, obviously, because I am smart. Americans rightly get a lot of shit for their systems of measurement, and for the most part it’s deserved. Sure the metric system makes more sense than the random number of feet in a mile. But I will never stop arguing that Fahrenheit is such a better system for measuring weather temperatures than Celsius. Oh sure in Celsius your temps for the freezing and boiling of water are easy to remember (0 and 100) but that’s not the kind of information you’re after when discussing WEATHER. Fahrenheit has a wider number range for temperatures we actually use in average normal weather (below 0 to over 100F in a normal year in my city, versus what, -10 to 40C?? what is that nonsense), so you get more information from that number than you do in Celsius. It’s much more precise. I need everyone to stop lumping our use of Fahrenheit for weather into the ‘Americans can’t measure shit’ debate because the argument for Celsius when it comes to weather does not exist. This is the hill I will die on.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Or maybe this is the hill I will die on – at least I was terrified I would:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
it’s steeper than it looks<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n“do I have to?” Not only do you have to, you’re gonna do it 3 times<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\nClimbing up this monstrosity is a lot of fun (it’s fun to climb things!), but like all the giant pyramids and ruins we’d encounter on this trip, coming down is TERRIFYING. It’s so steep and the steps are so narrow and you are just going like straight down and omg it’s forking frightening. I went down a lot of these steps sitting down. It’s just safer. Omg I am so scared again looking at it. Fun story, so I climbed it, said yee haw, and made my way miraculously back down. But then I saw how cool the pictures we took of Z sitting on the steps looked, so I climbed back up and took some of those (like the one below) at different points on the stairs. Then I miraculously tempted fate and got safely down again and thanked the Mayan gods.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
I mean it was so worth it <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\nI am shaking I’m higher than the trees! like by a lot And this perspective lets you see how forkign steep this was, since you can’t even seen the steps I mean man<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nBut THEN, when we were both on sacred ground again, we realized we forgot to take a selfie at the top, a thing we like to do when we climb things. So up again I went, for the third time, and down again I came, thinking that ‘third time’s the charm’ would mean something bad for me, but luckily I made it and please do not make me climb it again. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
Aside from my terrors, it was a pretty great morning. Ek Balam costs 413 pesos (very typical for these sites) (about $20) and it’s cash only. As is the case with most tourist attractions in the Yucatan, there will be guys (yoots) hanging out in the parking lot who will offer to watch your car while you tour the site, for 20-30 pesos. Of course this is a scam, but you do it, okay? They really do watch your car and if you say no they will probably, um, not. So just suck it up and pay them, it’s fine. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
nerd<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n
CENOTES<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\nAfter our climby climby morning at Ek Balam, we enjoyed my absolute favorite part of this trip: the cenotes. A cenote is a natural sinkhole formed from the collapse of bedrock, exposing groundwater underneath. The ancient Maya may have used these for sacrificial offerings but luckily I didn\u2019t know that until after we swam in a bunch of them because ew and oh no. I got to enjoy these for what they were to me: beautiful natural swimming pools, one of my favorite things (pools in general; considering my favorite smell is the chlorine of indoor pools the \u2018beautiful\u2019 or \u2018natural\u2019 element isn\u2019t required but it was definitely a perk here). <\/p>\n\n\n\n
How pretty!!!<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\nOur first stop was the Cenote X’keken, which I can’t even describe how I’m saying wrongly in my head let alone how to properly say it, I’m sorry. (Is it like schnecken?? now I want schnecken.) This cenote is well signed since it’s pretty popular. Going to Schnecken alone is 80 pesos, but a combined ticket with another cenote on the same grounds is 125. If you are short on cash, just the one is fine and you probably won’t swim in both anyway. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\nTO THE BAT CAVE<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe cool\/crazy thing about X’Keken is that it’s completely underground. The guards will point you through the grounds, past a semi-abandoned sort of circular mall with bathrooms and changing rooms and, luckily, one lady renting towels outside (we paid 30 pesos), and over to a hidden staircase leading underground into literally the bat cave. The cave is, indeed, filled with bats. It’s so freaking cool! The bats keep to themselves flitting around the roof of the cave so you don’t have to worry about them bothering you or anything. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
so cool<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\npretty big bat cave<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nAs you can see it’s pretty big, and even with a crowd it doesn’t feel crowded. It was pretty awesome! Everyone just leaves their stuff along the sides of the rock, but of course leave whatever you can in your car.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
it me! <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\nAfter our little schnecken swim, we drove about an hour to my favorite place: the Yokdzonot Cenote. This location has my favorite cenote, as well as a great restaurant. And best of all, it’s also a women’s collective, run by the local women of the community. Entry only costs 80 pesos and it’s the most beautiful cenote ever.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
ISN’T IT<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\nit’s so pretty here<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\nWe timed our day perfectly so we arrived at Yokzdonot (or as I say in my head without wanting to, yoka deez nuts (I am sorry)) for lunch. We learned about this place and their ability to make vegan food from a PPK friend (the best and og vegan forum, never to be surpassed never to be forgotten), and sure enough they brought me this very nice plate of steamed nopales (cactus), nicely flavored rice, refried black beans, cabbage slaw, and a whole plate of soft tortillas so I could wrap everything up in my own special messy way. We also of course got guacamole, which was great. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\nI dig having both hard and soft tortillas at the same meal<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\nAfter we ate, we changed in the changing rooms + bathrooms that are right off the restaurant space, and then put everything we didn’t need back in the car, which was a little annoying to keep walking out to but so what who cares. And then we went swimming in the best cenote! <\/p>\n\n\n\nit me! i think<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nAt first, I was annoyed at the rule that everyone who enters the cenote must wear a lifejacket, but honestly it ended up being good because I was pretty tired from the heat by this point and it was nice to just float and relax and enjoy the scenery without worrying about drowning. This was such a lovely experience, and luckily it wasn’t too crowded for most of our visit. Yokadeeznuts is not the kind of place that can accommodate big bus tour groups, fortunately, but more and more people seem to be discovering it. I’m so glad we had a relatively chill time here. I love this place so much. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
After one of the most relaxing experiences in recent memory, we went back to the car, grabbed our clothes, went back to the restaurant, changed back into (gross, sorry) clothes, and girded our loins for the big forking thing. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
<\/p>\n\n\n\n
CHICHEN ITZA<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\n\n\n\nChichen Itza was one of the largest Mayan cities, built in approximately 600 AD, actually not that long ago in the scheme of ancient ruins. A variety of architectural styles decorate the site, suggesting that the population here was more diverse than the rest of the Mayan world. A cenote on the site (not swimmable, sadly) was likely used for sacrificial purposes – as you learn pretty much everything in the ancient Mayan world was. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
The famous pyramid, El Castillo, is also called the Temple of Kukulcan. Kukulcan was a Mayan feathered serpent god like the Aztec’s Quetzalcoatl, the inspiration for Wetzel’s Pretzels. You are no longer allowed to climb El Castillo, which, ya know, fine by me. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
starting to see it! so exciting! <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\noh there it is ahhhh <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\nLike I said before, Chichen Itza is always crowded, so instead of futilely trying to beat the crowds or the heat, we decided to do the opposite on both counts and go late afternoon, so that we would finish exploring the site at its closing time. (Just under two hours was, surprisingly, more than enough time for us, and we usually take forever.) This sounds like the opposite of anyone’s advice for seeing any place, but honestly it was a great move! The site is ENORMOUS – so much more than the famous pyramid that we took 1000s of photos of – and goes on for miles. So, the crowd disperses fairly quickly and it doesn’t feel crowded at all. It’s especially spacious around El Castillo and the Great Ball Court (oh, we will learn about the games that happen in these ball courts in the Uxmal\/Merida post, just you wait). <\/p>\n\n\n\n
i bet people were sacrificed here that’s a safe bet for anything you see in these sites <\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n <\/figure>\n\n\n\nthis is my “I’m kind of sad that the cenote behind me is no longer full of water but also I’m not sad about that because people were sacrificed in there so yeesh you could not pay me” face<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\nEntry to Chichen Itza is 480 pesos per person, and you have to pay\nin cash. I know you\u2019ve seen information that says it accepts card, but they\nwill tell you it\u2019s cash only. And if you persist, they will tell you you can\npay the main fee by card, but you still need to pay the 75 peso \u201cfederal fee\u201d\nportion of the price in cash regardless, so it\u2019s all annoying and just expect\nto pay cash everywhere even though the touts selling tees and tchotchkes inside\nthe grounds have card payment capacity. At least there are toilets inside the\ngrounds as well as in the entrance hall! <\/p>\n\n\n\nLike Greg Serrano, I might hate the feeling of the sun when it hits my skin, but damn if that strong as sun didn’t make for some amazing lighting<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nEl Castillo and all of Chichen Itza was pretty incredible. I’m so glad I got to see it. I am so lucky and grateful that I got to see all of these spectacular places that I knew mythologically for so long, and I fully do not believe that all of this happened in one day. What a day! Once we closed down Chichen Itza, we got back in the car for the long drive to Merida, where our next adventure awaits. <\/p>\n\n\n\n
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Living in London, we missed good Mexican food so much that we decided to take an epic trip to Mexico earlier this summer. Okay, we had […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":10782,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[162],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-10695","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-travel-d1"],"yoast_head":"\n
A Wondrous Place For Me & Yucatan: Valladolid, Chichen Itza, & Our Fave Cenotes - Laughfrodisiac<\/title>\n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n \n\t \n\t \n\t \n \n \n \n \n \n\t \n\t \n\t \n